Aug 5, 2011

The Grand Voyage To Argentina



First Stop.. Salto and the thermal baths at Dayman
 (sorry no pics of the baths.. didn't want to ruin my camera)

 Prince Pepe is his name... took quite the liking to the two of us
 MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM delicious grass
 I'm makin Waffles!
 A nice cut of steak topped with chimichurri and blood sausage.. something that i used to think was gross but am now in love with
 A quiet street in Salto, Uruguay
 A Zen moment along the Rio Uruguay
 Despite the funny sign as far as I can tell no one picks up their dogs poop on this continent

Enjoying a nice lunch at a wonderful parrilla (grill) in Salto

Behind us is the Rio Uruguay separating Uruguay and Argentina

We soon boarded a bus and crossed the river

Sitting at a cafe in Concordia eating lunch (Big Steaks) and drinking vino tino (red wine) before our 9pm bus ride.

After a 11.5 hr. bus ride we arrived in Puerto Izuagu


Coatis (little raccoon looking things that are EVERYWHERE!)

At Iguazu Falls
some factoids: Iguazu currently has the second greatest average annual flow of any waterfall in the world
                      Upon seeing Iguazu, the United States' First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly exclaimed "Poor Niagara!" Iguazu is also often compared with Southern Africa's Victoria Falls which separates Zambia and Zimbabwe. Iguazu is wider, but because it is split into about 275 discrete falls and large islands, Victoria is the largest curtain of water in the world, at over 1,600 m (5,249 ft) wide and over 100 m (328 ft) in height (in low flow Victoria is split into five by islands; in high flow it can be uninterrupted). The only wider falls are extremely large rapid-like falls such as the Boyoma Falls.
                     Iguazu Falls is located where the Iguazu River tumbles over the edge of the Paraná Plateau, 23 kilometres (14 mi) upriver from the Iguazu's confluence with the Paraná River.[1] Numerous islands along the 2.7-kilometre (1.7 mi) long edge divide the falls into about 275 separate waterfalls and cataracts, varying between 60 metres (200 ft) and 82 metres (269 ft) high. About half of the river's flow falls into a long and narrow chasm called the Devil's Throat (Garganta del Diablo in Spanish or Garganta do Diabo in Portuguese)
                     Iguazu Falls was the sight of me and my fiancee's engagement!


I looked but couldn't find the pot of gold. when we were in a boat going under the falls we were actually able to see an entire rainbow.. both ends, never seen that before.. again no pot of gold or leprechauns. let down city

The butterfly whisperer

Mr. Lizard.. goes by the name Sinclair



On the upper circuit of trails just above one of the many waterfalls

At this moment she is completely unsuspecting and in the dark about what is about to happen in the next minute... i scramble to get the engagement ring out of its box hidden deep in my backpack and into my pocket before its arrives at its final destination. this lady's left ring finger
And then i asked her the big question!
 AND SHE SAID YES!
 check out that smile .. and that ring!
Still a little in shock, a little speechless... i'm talking about both of us

The newly engaged couple

Yea cute i know.. She made me do it... ah i'm not fooling anyone!


We are on a boat, dry, and happy... what we don't fully realize is that the boat isn't just going near the waterfalls.. its going into them!  Ended up being one of the coolest experiences of my life.
Yeah, we were in that shit!
In typical American fashion i'm raising my arms to signal that I have conquered the falls. aka nature



In her words, "crouching turista"

somebody is a nature lover.. maybe a bit drunk on nature one could say




These birds are 1. great models for taking pictures, and 2. unique to the falls given that they actually spend a lot of their time flying into and under the falls where they build their nests... no one knows what kind of tomfoolery goes on back there

In the calm of the iguazu river ... 50 meters to my right a lot of chaos.. aka waterfall action is going on.
right over that edge.. the world ends

right over that edge all hell is breaking loose.  waterfall style!

theres me looking a bit like simple jack on top of devils throat.. the biggest of the falls



ecological tour... much more low key than the falls.  the falls separate the the upper and lower Iguazu River.. here we are paddling along the calm portion of the upper falls
we just thought this was too funny to pass up a picture

a bird trap being executed by a trained professional

that same bird trap idea on crack.. my theory: they trap people in this one



this is where i learned how afraid of heights my fiancee is, who by the way has previously zip lined through a rain forest... so yes.. it was surprising. but either was she is a badass
one of many many awesome street murals/graffiti





Yall like orange's!

On to Cafayate via Tucuman (this entailed a 25 1/5 hour bus ride to Tucuman, followed by supposedly 2 hour cab ride(actually more like 5 hr ride of terror up winding mountain roads during an intense dust storm) up into the mountains of the Salta province where Cafayate is located.  I got sick on the bus from things I had eaten earlier that day (WAY TO MUCH RED MEAT and 4 EMPANADAS) and was trapped on a bus with a bathroom that did not allow good ol #2s.  oh the horror.  FYI.. don't ride Andesmar buses.
 mmmm... empanadas.. unfortuantely the service provided down here isn't built on the same hyper speed "gotta make that money" attitude as in the USA.   Go USA! but seriously.. the empanadas were awesome.  for those who were wondering.. and empanada is a dough filled pouch consisting of hard boild egg, meat, chicken, cheese, or many other ingredients. and either baked, grilled, or fried.

 about 1/3 way though of the trip having not shaved or trimmed the beard.. starting to look creepy and terroristy... brilliant!
 waiting on that slow empanada service i was talking about
 El Esteco Bodega.. home to my personal favorite wine in south america so far!  Don David and Elementos brands featuring cab sauvs, tannats, and malbecs.



 for those that know me well.. you know THIS wino got really excited during this part of the trip.. maybe too excited as the next few pics indicate


Goin to save this picture for when i'm old and fat.. cause i'm def not that skinny in real life but this picture is awesome for the skinny factor!
 pretty ring.. nice guy must have given that to her


 the wine is absorbing... the sassafras is coming out
 officially drunk at this point
 trying to make my own variety of el esteco vino... ala the Aaron grape
someone found some crackers!
 Transito Bodega.. also very delicious.. spicy wine! lots of pepper!
i assume this machine makes wine... just got a little camera happy at this point



 Awesome hotel that we stayed at in Cafayate.. my personal fav. spot of the trip
Neat graphitee from across the street from the hotel Killa (pronounces hotel kisha) not killer!

Now we begin our field excursion into the Rio Colorado.. definitely not for the non-hiker, non-risk your lifer
Franco here.. coolest person i've met in south america so far
 oh Franco... a Quechua native who took us on the coolest guided tour.. shit.. coolest experience of my life! rock climbing, walking along cliffs with little room to stand.. i live for this shit!  Kudos Franco! Muchas Gracias Senior!
An aqueduct bringing water from atop the mountains to agricultural fields
A form of poison ivy..don't touch!






Big Ass Mother F*ing Cactus

Not sure why this photo got into this section, but some delicious soup anyone?!
One of the many cool waterfalls along the Rio Colorado


What you see below is normally a river, we were there in the dry season. the river supplies many many people with clean potable water


Just chillin in a cave.. WHAT!?
That is blood from sometihng a puma killed the night before.. we are hot on the trail!.. to get eaten

As Franco explained.. idiots from Buenos Aires come here and think they can just spray paint over nature.  He said they use acidic liquids to clean the stupid crap off

Franco is certainly an artist with the camera.. so thirsty!
oh that is some delicious agua



More artful photography from our gracious and awesome tour guide Franco

Below is a site where Franco and other young men of his culture go to at a certain age to become men. take psychedelic drugs and become one with their surroundings...(both the puma and the condor are very important and sacred creatures in their culture) this site was one of the coolest, more introspective moments of my young life. Franco held my hands in a symbol if the infinite connection between man - man- and nature, and told me he felt a very strong and resistant man... apparently those were both compliments via my translator.


Spider Man! that thing was really really big
Hanging out with wild mountain goats... i'm not using a zoom there
On top of the world!!!




Checking out a vineyard during an evening bike ride








  1. Looking down at the ruins of Quilmes



























starting to get grizzly and really into it at this point
i think the sun was starting to make her go loco!




geology anyone?
me like
i'm glad they specified in the cyber cafe that ROBBERY is prohibited.. cause i was definitively going to stick them up until i saw the sign

The lord of the ring... or rather its journey


This woman is seriously my new hero.. she makes wine ice cream.. but when asked if there was any cream in it (given i am lactose intolerant) she replied "if you put cream in wine then it isn't wine!" so the next few pics are us drinking frozen wine! i am pretty sure this woman is hammered 24/7 eating her frozen wine cones!

yes.. i'm very proper and dignified, eating me wine ice "cream" in a cone



you place a rock here and ask the mother of these hills "the hills itself" if it is okay to pass



something appears to be wrong with my legs in this picture

Tae-Bow anyone?


Contemplative Stance... and Action!
these were once all homes, prior to the outside invasion of spanish conquistadors


the tour guide let me off the leash so i went on my own.. of the path.. and climbed the shit out of the mountain












 Home Alone?
 Thats my Diva woman
 Tickets to the gun show anyone?
 the camera predator stalks its prey. 
 as my former Chef Frank would say "Movie Star!"
 the weight of the world on her shoulders






 keeping it funky fresh


 freaking out due to heights.. again i'm surprised given her extensive experience doing height related things in other countries that would scare the crap out of me.  don't even question it... shes hardcore!

 beautiful stratification... a geologists' wet dream


 that is a rock that naturally looks exactly like a frog.. my fiancee is either acting like a frog or in need of a bathroom.

 some fellas playing music in a natural rock formation amphitheater.. no they didn't get my money.


The FUTURE,.. Mrs. and Mr. Hope and Aaron Porter!!!

NEXT STOP ... SALTA
 Bridge builders? it was freakin cold out, glad i don't have that job
 not a safe bridge
 SATLA, a pretty big city in Argentina





 mocking statues.. locals were laughing during this photo shoot
 this is how american globalism translates into other cultures

 a monastery.. what up!
 below are a few photos of the gardens in our bed and breakfast "bloomers"




MMMMMMMMM empanadas






















For a change of pace from the being in either cities or deserts we took a day trip to San Lorenzo, a cute small town outside Salta where vegetation was lush, moss covered the trees.  It had a lord of the rings vibe (i.e. the Shire)





 looking a bit winded after the steep ascent to the mountain top
the picture is deceiving, this was a really steep slope we had to climb 
After a relaxing hike in San Lorenzo (a small town outside Salta) we can see the entire city of Salta from above 
 This dog tried to kiss me... what can i say, dogs love me


Next..The Final Stop of the Voyage........ Tilcara
 Our hotel.. Really beautiful view out our patio doors






 Awesome wild oak in the middle of an old church turned museum

Our guide showing us a kitchen from long long ago, below is a tool used to mash corn (it is REALLY heavy) 
 This is a toilet in a prisoner holding cell

 The hill of 7 colors



The hill of 7 colors 


 Right over that edge is a several hundred.. maybe 1000 meter fall.. hope was freaking out
 The highest peak of the trip! 4170 meters

 Looks like Mars
 Mars or maybe star wars






 Proud man up there.. just conquered the cliff
 time for contemplation and self reflection...jk


On to Salinas Grandes (huge salt flats)
i am licking the salt.. mm.. delicious
 Prancer

 I believe i can fly!
 One of the more interesting places I've ever had a picnic



 "running" out of poses at the salt flats... pun intended!
 Everything in there is made of salt.  it was supposed to become a restaurant but they could not get potable water out that far so it just serves as a tool shed if you will for the salt miners
 No that's not snow, that's all Salt.... i think my cholesterol went up just standing there

 Wild Lamas!!!!!!!!!!!!

 Ancient carvings of the lama

 When salt is removed the hole naturally fills with water



 Futbol graffiti!!! GOOOOOAAL
 LAMA! on the outer wall of a cyber cafe
Some really cool art on the outside of a restaurant we requented

 A mural of more or less where we traveled on excursions during this part of the trip
Corona commerical?  i felt very high society sitting on our patio and drinking this excellent vino from a vineyard we'd been to in Cafayate

We slowly wound down the trip. Truely and adventure of a lifetime.  I can't even count how many hikes and treks we went on but we have officially seen and experienced the towns, cities, natural scenery, food, and culture of a small border town on the edge of Uruguay in SaltO, relaxed in the natural thermal baths in Dayman, ate a nice lunch across the Rio Uruguay in a little Argentinian town called Concordia, then absorbed the jungle in Puerto Iguazu, ascended tall mountains on treacherous winding roads to vino country in Cafayate,  explored the nearby deserts and mountain ranges along the foothills of the Andes, before continuing our desert   voyage in SaltA, Jujuy, and Tilcara.  It was now time for the long long trip home.  a 2 hour cab ride from Tilcara to Jujuy, a 25.5 hour bus ride to Buenos Aires, and a 3 hour ferry ride across the Rio de la Plata back into Montevideo, and a 10 minute cab ride to our apartment.  Exhausted but feeling totally fulfilled.

Oh and I almost forgot... the whole time we were traveling Copa America was going on and we were able to watch Uruguay take home the championship trophy while watching the sad Argentinians suck it up after we knocked them out of the tournament!  Suarez Suarez!!! Forlaaaaaaan!

1 comment:

  1. I Loved seeing all of the photos and comments! The boys enjoyed being able to see where Uncle Aaron is while Koya is vacationing at the Pond Resort!

    ReplyDelete